I have never seen so many horses casually grazing, so many relaxed riders, so many stables both public and private as I have encountered here in Tuscia, north of Rome. These are not the butteri of the Maremma, though that too is Lazio. These are a sort of suburban cowboy, weekend and pleasure riders, very frequently young professionals who go riding out of passion for the sport and company, who go riding in pairs or groups on long spring evenings when temperatures begin to moderate. Make no mistake – they are serious and able horsemen and women! The medievally-costumed riders, who represent the four contrade here in Civita, practice for months to prepare for the competition held annually at the Forte Sangallo during the local festival of San Marciano and Giovanni…
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